- Modelling has changed, but resilience and preparation still matter.
- Mala Bryan, Bisi Sowemimo and Mutaleni Ya Toivo share advice from decades in the industry.
- Topics covered: finances, finding your niche, industry skills, relationships, and treating modelling as a business.
The modelling industry has always balanced glamour with grit. It looks effortless on the runway or in a glossy campaign, but behind every polished image lie years of training, resilience, and sacrifice.
At an AFI In Conversation discussion, three models who know the industry from the inside, Mala Bryan, Bisi Sowemimo and Mutaleni Ya Toivo, shared their hard-won wisdom.
Their stories are different, but their advice overlaps in one crucial way: a sustainable career in modelling requires discipline, planning, and a strong sense of self.
Two Decades of Change in the Modelling Industry
Cape Town-based Mala Bryan has modelled internationally for over 22 years, working in Paris, Miami and South Africa. She was scouted on the streets of St Lucia, a chance encounter that launched her global career.
She’s watched the industry evolve.
“When I started, natural hair didn’t work. Agencies did not know what to do with me… they cut all of my hair off… so they sent me home.”
Today, the industry looks very different.
“It’s a lot easier now. There is an agency and a space for almost everybody in the industry; it is a bit more diverse.”
From exclusion to inclusivity, Bryan’s career traces how much the business has shifted and how models must adapt with it.
From Model to Agent
Bisi Sowemimo entered modelling through her cousin, who suggested she give it a try when she was training to be a basketball player. Nearly two decades later, she has experience not only as a model but also as an agent with ICE Models in Johannesburg.
That dual perspective is rare. She knows how it feels to be on castings and also what agencies and clients are looking for.
Her advice is sharp:
“Build relationships because you never know where your next job is coming from… and humility goes a long way in this business. They’re not looking for divas.”
Redefining Representation
Mutaleni Ya Toivo, a Namibian model based in Johannesburg, represents a new wave. As a plus-size model and trained architect, she is expanding what representation looks like in African markets.
“I have always wanted to be a model but I’ve never been the socially accepted standard size… I looked up to Ashley Graham, and I was like, if she can do it why can’t I do it, but like in Africa.”
She’s walked runways from Windhoek Fashion Week to Johannesburg Fashion Week, showing that plus-size modelling in Africa is not a niche, but rather a growing space with powerful demand.
The Money Behind the Glamour
The conversation turned to finances, a side of modelling that’s often hidden.
Bryan was upfront:
“When I first started… I was $25,000 in debt to the agency because they prepay for everything… you come there broke so they advance you money and on top of that you’re getting interest charged.”
It took her years to break even.
“It probably took me like two or three years because it’s like you’re investing in yourself… you pay for everything from websites to comp cards to every print.”
The lesson? Behind the glamour, modelling is an investment and models must be ready to manage their finances carefully.
Skills, Discipline and Performance in Modelling
Sowemimo stresses that modelling is far more than a walk.
“People tell me ‘but you just walk down the runway and get paid.’ I’m like, girl, it’s not that easy… people see the finished product but you have to put in the work.”
For commercial modelling especially, performance matters.
“In the commercial space it’s all about performance… you have to know how to perform in front of the camera… it’s not always easy when that red light comes on.”
Knowing what to wear to castings, how to do your makeup, and how to present yourself professionally is non-negotiable. Models represent not only themselves but also their agencies.
Finding Your Niche
Each panellist carved out her own lane:
- Bryan shifted from high fashion to skincare campaigns as she matured
- Sowemimo became an agent, whilst still modelling at Johannesburg Fashion Week
- Ya Toivo built her career in fashion weeks that appreciated plus-size models
The takeaway: the industry is wide, but success comes from knowing your lane and building within it.
The Business of Modelling
Bryan understood early that models are brands.
“I think it was 2006 or 2007 when I bought malabryan.com because I was like, I want to be a brand.”
Models are self-employed contractors who must treat their careers like businesses. Agencies, clients, contracts; they all require professionalism and strategy. Social media helps, but it’s not everything.
“If you’re a model with an agency… your social media is only necessary because clients want to see you… the majority of clients don’t care about numbers.”
Research and Preparation
Sowemimo regularly sees newcomers make simple mistakes, like wrong photos, glasses on in headshots and no understanding of what agencies want.
Her advice is direct:
“Always do your research… go online, check their website, see the work they’ve done… every agency has an Instagram.”
Start small, she adds. Build a portfolio with smaller jobs, then grow. Ya Toivo agrees:
“Starting is probably one of the most difficult things… but once you start it only goes up from there.”
Professional Wisdom for Sustainable Success
The stories of Bryan, Sowemimo and Ya Toivo strip away the glossy image to reveal the real work of modelling. From financial planning to discipline, from humility to research, the lesson is clear: modelling is not just a dream, but a career that also demands strategy and resilience.
As Ya Toivo puts it:
“It’s a difficult environment to be strong and motivated about… but it has been to never give up.”
The industry can be rewarding, but only if you approach it as a business with the same discipline, dedication and respect as any other profession.